Rome’s lesser-known, nonclassical quartiere
The San Lorenzo neighborhood – nestled between Termini, Sapienza University, and Verano Monumental Cemetery – has long been known as Rome’s alternative spot. This quartiere is bursting with industrial history and heart. A working class neighborhood that was heavily bombed in World War II, San Lorenzo has a gritty, resiliant nature that fosters raw creativity. Take a long walk through its streets to admire colorful wall murals and street art. Stroll through Villa Mercede, the neighborhood green space that hosts a small library. Stop under Porta Tiburtina, a gateway in the Aurelian Walls. Most importantly, though, you’ll want to visit as many of the neighborhood’s unique restaurants, bars, and entertainment venues as possible, such as the brand-new Soho House, which recently opened its first location here in Italy.
RESTAURANTS in SAN LORENZO
Kiko Sushi Bar
Piazzale del Verano, 90
Open Tue-Sun 1pm-2pm, 8pm-11pm
kikosushibar.it
Master chef Atsufumi Kikuchi crafts sushi with the culinary traditions of both Japan and New York City in mind. Visitors can expect elegant dishes and attention to detail in Kiko’s chic but intimate space. And if you don’t feel like venturing out, the restaurant also offers home delivery.
Mazzo
Via degli Equi, 62
Open Mon-Sat from 7pm
The small restaurant-laboratory – with a wine bar – of The Fooders, Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli, with few frills and a lot of substance in the dishes. Here there is a strong presence of Roman tradition: fried trippa, cod, a lot of offal (quinto quarto), together with Benedetto Cavalieri’s crazy wheels with pannicolo genovese.
SAID dal 1923: Antica Fabbrica del Cioccolato
Via Tiburtina, 6
Open Tue-Sat 5.30pm-12.30am, Fri 5.30pm-1.30am, Sat 4pm-1.30am, Sun 4pm-9pm
said.it/locations/roma
SAID began as a chocolate factory in the 1920s, and has since evolved into a bistro, serving lunch and dinner to accompany its decadent chocolate desserts. The restaurant includes a shop for purchasing take-away sweets to bring home.
Tram Tram
Via dei Reti, 46
Open Tue-Sat 12.30pm-3pm, 7:30pm-11pm
tramtram.it
This small tavern was founded by the Di Vittorio family—a mother and her two daughters—in 1991. Its name honors the old tram that still passes by the restaurant. The menu combines Pugliese, seafood-focused cuisine with classic Roman dishes, allowing diners to stretch their palates from “fried golden anchovies to offal with artichokes.”
Gelato San Lorenzo
Via Tiburtina, 6
Mon-Sun 11am-1am
gelatosanlorenzo.com
This gelateria emphasizes its “100% natural” approach, with each recipe containing high quality milk, sugar, organic eggs, proteins, and vegetable fibers. Gelato San Lorenzo serves unique flavors like chocolate with orange, pear cinnamon crumble, ricotta, anise, and sour cherries.
Hamburgheseria
Via dei Reti, 40
Tue-Sat 12pm-4pm, 6:30pm-1am; Sun 6.30pm-12am
facebook.com/BurgerMarket
Any homesick American is sure to find their fix at this “burger bar.” The menu includes classic United States sports bar fare, like chicken fingers and wings, kettle chips, nachos, and onion rings. For a main course, choose from one of the many hamburger options or go with a filling wrap.
Bonario
Via dei Volsci, 121
Mon 9am-9pm, Tue-Sat 9am-12am, Sat 4pm-12am
facebook.com/bonarioroma/
If you are vegetarian or vegan, check out Bonario for vegetable dishes, seafood, tofu, pizza, and pasta. The colorful but chic decor and piano create a comfortable, trendy ambiance.
L’Osteria Pesce Fritto e Baccalà
Via dei Falisci, 4/8
Tue-Sun 12pm-12am
osteriapescefrittoebaccala.it
This restaurant, whose name translates to “the osteria with fried fish and salted cod,” serves traditional Roman cuisine with some twists. Homemade pasta, inventive seafood, and quality meats are specialities.
Pastificio San Lorenzo
Via Tiburtina, 196
Sun-Sat 12.30pm-2am
pastificiosanlorenzo.com
This mod tavern, situated inside the oldest pasta factory in San Lorenzo, is all about quality and nonconformity. Fresh tortellini, breaded lamb, artisanal drinks, and live music pull in locals and travelers, alike.
Ferrovecchio
Via dei Sabelli, 32
Mon 4pm-12am, Tue-Sun 12pm-12am
facebook.com/FerrovecchioSanLorenzo/
Come to Ferrovecchio to enjoy hamburgers on homemade buns, pizza, focaccia, and craft beers from all over the world. The industrial space reflects the building’s history as an iron recyclery.
Farinè La Pizza
Via degli Aurunci, 6
Tue-Sun 7pm-11pm
farinelapizza.it
This pizzeria offers few frills, opting instead for top-quality, simple food. They make “highly digestible” pizza dough with a careful, lengthy leavening process of at least 48 hours.
Ottavi dal 1921
Via dei Dalmati, 3
Mon-Fri 7.30am-12apm, Sat 8am-12am
ottavi1921.it
This historic bakery offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. In the morning, expect sweet pastries, and throughout the day, enjoy pizzas and focaccias. The bakery suggests its signature Ottavio Salato, a customizable filled bun available for lunch.
BARS in SAN LORENZO
Giufà Libreria Caffè
Via degli Aurunci, 38
Mon-Thurs 9am-10pm, Fri-Sat 9am-12am, Sun 11am-8pm
libreriagiufa.it
This unique, tiny bookshop is cozy and colorful, with a few tables where visitors can enjoy a coffee or a snack while chatting with a friend or reading a book. It’s named from a character of Italian folklore known for his silly antics and strong moral message.
Chiostro San Lorenzo
Via dei Peligni
Mon-Wed 7am-11pm, Thu-Sun 7am-1am
facebook.com/chioscosanlorenzo/
Chiosco San Lorenzo is located within the Parco dei Caduti del 19 Luglio. There is a playground for children and a drink area with music for adults.
Officine Beat
Via degli Equi, 29
Mon-Thurs, 9am-10pm, Fri-Sat 9am-12am, Sun 11am-8pm
officinebeat.it
This softly-lit cocktail bar offers creative drinks made with homemade, fresh ingredients and finished with attention to aesthetics by artisan bartenders. The Beat also offers a simple food menu of refined cuisine.
Marmo
Piazzale del Verano, 71
Sun-Sat 6pm-2am
facebook.com/Marmoroma/
This cozy, stylish bar boasts elegant food and an attractive setting. Guests can sit outside on the “secret garden”-like deck for a meal surrounded by plants.
ENTERTAINMENT in SAN LORENZO
Al Muretto
Via degli Aurunci, 26
Mon-Sat, 10am-3am
facebook.com/almurettosanlollo
Born from the remains of the historic Le Mura, which after twelve years of activity had to close its doors for good at 24 Via di Porta Labicana, Al Muretto is located on Via Degli Aurunci. In the mornings it’s open for students and workers, in the evenings it offers all kinds of cultural and artistic events: from karaoke to open mic, to stand-up comedy and, of course, live music performances and DJ sets.
Soho House Rome (only for members)
Via Cesare De Lollis, 12
Sun-Wed 8am-12am, Thurs 8am-1am Fri-Sat 8am-2am
sohohouse.com/it/houses/soho-house-rome
If you’re looking for a chic, artist-focused experience in Rome, pay a visit to the Soho House in San Lorenzo. With locations around the world, Soho House is a creative space that houses members. The San Lorenzo location hosts 49 bedrooms and 20 long-stay apartments, a bar and kitchen, a rooftop pool, and a health club.
La Conventicola degli Ultramoderni
Via di Porta Labicana, 32
Thu-Sat, 9.30pm-4am
ultramoderni.com
“Old songs! Burlesque! Illusionism and Bizarre!” This truly one-of-a-kind club features heavily aestheticized, atmospheric performances. Each night’s show features many guests and performers for members’ entertainment.
Read more.
Sally Brown Rude-pub
Via degli Etruschi, 3A/B
Mon-Sat 6pm-2am
facebook.com/sally.brown.148
This lively bar hosts live music for all: jazz, soul, R&B, funk, and more. Visitors can expect a unique, warm experience and a lot of fun, free people.
STREET ART in SAN LORENZO
Recognized as one of Rome’s art districts, San Lorenzo is home to students and street art; from Via dei Volsci to Via degli Enotri and a collective wall through Via degli Ausoni, there is much to be seen. It houses the works of many famous international street artists including a block-long mural by Alice Pasquini. This area is also home to the work of French artist Christian Guémy aka C215; the Italian artists SOLO, Unga, and The Broken Fingaz Crew; and ABOVE, a Californian, Berlin-based artist who like Banksy has chosen to hide his identity. Despite being home to so many well known painters, the playful nature of San Lorenzo has made it into a fertile ground for Roman artists to constantly use its walls as their ever-changing canvas.
(text by Raha Shirazi)
INSPIRATION
Street art in Rome
ART & CULTURE
In this neighborhood, one can also find lots of history, art, and green space. The sprawling Cimitero Monumentale del Verano, for example, is a burial ground at least 2,000 years old. Though its plots are full, the cemetery is open to the public, and one can take a walk through its ground to admire beautiful tombstones, statues, and an imposing entrance portico.
The beautiful Basilica di San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura (Saint Lawrence outside the Walls) is a combination of two churches, and houses the relics of Santo Stefano.
San Tommaso Moro is a 20th century parish church at Via dei Marrucini 1, dedicated to St Thomas More, the English Reformation martyr.
Villa Mercede, a lovely green park in the heart of San Lorenzo, houses a small public library. Check out a book, pick a bench to read on, and listen to the birds. Also in San Lorenzo is the Fondazione Pastificio Cerere, a museum for contemporary art. Check out the exhibition showing through the end of the year: Agostino Iacurci: Landscape n ° 2, “a project that transforms the facade of the former semoleria di San Lorenzo on Piazza dei Sanniti into a monumental work of art.”
